Here is some knife related information that you may be interested in.

I have access to most knife related steels- Elmax, N690, S35VN, AEB-L, 5160, 8670, D2, O1, S30V are just a few that I have used.  I can order in any of the currently available steels from my suppliers.  If you have a favorite steel or want something specific you just need to let me know.

Anything I can't heat treat in my shop either gets heat treated by the steel maker or sent out to Paul Bos or Peter's Heat Treat. Hardness tends to be Rc 59-60 in most of my knives. Basically, I research the use of the knife balance the hardness with the strengths of that particular steel.  I am really fond of the simple carbon steels because they can take a really good edge, hold it a long time and are relatively easy to sharpen.

Finishes- I can do bead blasted, stonewashed, hand rubbed, etched/patina- without too much problem depending on the steel.  

Handle material- I have G10 in stock and a pretty decent selection of stabilized wood and bone.  The more expensive the handle material the more it adds to the base price of the knife.  

Pins- I have 1/4, 1/8 and 3/8 mosaic pins/tubing on hand.  These cost me more so they add to the price slightly.  I really like using them as they add great character to the knife.  ($10) 

Sheaths- I can do leather or kydex and I do keep some tec locks in stock but not many.  Leather sheaths cost a little bit more due to the increased time required to make them.  ($30)  

I sharpen my custom knives free of charge- you just pay the shipping to and from. See my knife sharpening section for more details.

I have a couple of different kinds of stabilized woods and bone that I try to keep on hand as well as G10, Micarta, Titanium.

Stabilized wood/bone is a resin impregnating process that leaves the wood/bone behaving like plastic- ie does not absorb water, swell or shrink like normal wood. It may change shape a little bit but not to the same extent as unstabilized wood/bone.

I also use micarta which is a bunch layered fabrics in a phenolic resin, quite frequently.

G10 is fiberglass layered with phenolic resin. Both are resistant to oils, acid etc and do not tend to change shape over time.

If you have any questions about pros and cons of different handle materials feel free to contact me and we can talk.

I also sharpen knives in addition to making them. My basic price is $1 per inch of blade length- plus return shipping.

If there is a lot of repair or regrinding necessary then I will call/email and let you know what needs to be done etc.  Generally with more work it will be $2 an inch.

If wanted I can rehandle/replace scales on a knife as well.  I have seen many Old hickory knives that are great steel (high carbon- stains/patinas and will rust if not cared for) that just need an awesome handle to make them great.   In fact- I will buy them off of you if you don't want them.  That is how much I like them.

On the matter of shipping..... please don't just throw in a box and ship. That is dangerous!! Take some cardboard and fold it over the edge like a pita and then tape the sucker with blue tape. You really don't want it rattling around in the box either, be sure to pack it securely.

If you have any other questions feel free to contact me. 

Once the knives or tools leave Crazy Frazee Forge the buyer is agreeing that he/she is responsible for their knife and their actions.

I also make custom rings from timascus (2 different kinds of titanium bonded together), damascus steel, stainless steel, and regular titanium. If you want one of kind, unique, or something that makes a statement other than plain I can probably make you something to fit the bill.

Information needed to make a ring includes: materials desired, exact ring size, width, thickness and profile.

Pricing is $300 for timascus, $250 for damascus, $150 for titanium and stainless.

If you have any other questions please feel free to call or email. Pics are in the gallery. More pics available.

Makers warranty refers to this- I will replace/repair anything that goes wrong within the normal uses of a knife.

If you use it for a prybar then all bets are off. A knife is the most expensive and least effective prybar there is. Knives are not to be used as a prybar or screwdriver!

This guarantee does not cover finishes, natural materials, normal wear & tear, modification or damage caused by misuse or neglect.

I am also not responsible for misuse of any of my knives that results in injury to you or another person. Use any knife with care!